Friday, October 15, 2010

Twilight Trip ~ Day IV ~ La Push

The Quileute Reservation is in La Push, Washington. The Quileute people have been on this land since signing the Quinault Treaty in 1855. There numbers used to be much greater but now it is said that there are between 550-750 now living on the reservation.

I found this on Wiki: "Told much in Quileute folklore, the Quileutes descended from wolves. Quileute myths proclaim that the two sided mythical character known as Dokibatt and K’wa’iti was responsible for creating the first ever person of the Quileute tribe, known as the Alpha, by transforming a wolf. This creation story takes on a life of its own. In the beginning there were six tribal societies that represented the elk hunter, the whale hunter, the fisherman, the weather predictor, and the medicine man. The medicine man honored the creator with the wolf dance. Quileute folklore is still very much alive in the area of the Quileute Nation near La Push, inhabited by many descendants of the original tribe." I thought that was kind of interesting.

La Push is only twelve miles from Forks. I was surprised when I saw the sign that said 12 miles, but happy. We took the 101 N to the 110, which if you remember correctly is the route Edward tells Bella to drive when they're in her truck heading for the meadow. This takes you straight to First Beach and as has been our whole experience on this trip, the drive was absolutely beautiful. I hope you enjoy all the photos I took. I'm not even posting 1/8 of them:

The drive through the National Park is something that you should pay attention to because it's amazing:

Nice La Push sign just outside of town. Only a little farther til the reservation:

We passed Second Beach on the way in but didn't walk down because of Chris's foot:

I'm not sure if the 110 ends and becomes La Push Road or if La Push Road and the 110 run together but this was a street sign near the 3 Rivers:

The Treaty Line is out front:

Yeah, right:

Jacob's Java is a coffee and espresso shop on Ocean Blvd. We didn't stop because I hate coffee, but it was cute:

There is a home on the reservation that is a representation of Jacob Black's home from Twilight. It was kind of a mess so I didn't make a big deal about it, but the motorcycle was cool:

Billy Black:

Across from the 3 Rivers you can rent a tiny cabin. I think this is what they mean when they say roughing it. I love my husband, but no TV? No thank you!

Almost everything so far is on the 110/La Push Rd. At some point, La Push Road turns into Ocean Front Drive and turns into Coast Guard Road and there is a Coast Guard Station there. I'm not sure how that works since the reservation isn't technically American soil, but I'm sure they've got something worked out. Anyhoo, you'll have to turn around to go back out the way you came and it dead ends at this school. This is the Quileute Tribal School. This is a K-12 school. Can you imagine? Pretty colours:

Once you turn around go back out and take a left onto Alder Street and take your next left onto River Street. This will take you straight out to the Quileute Marina:

If you take a right here onto River Drive, you will pass a few building and the marina and come to another dead end. Pull over to the side and get out. Walk up onto the rocks and look over at the Pacific Ocean. It's beautiful here and if you are without a camera, you will feel like an ass. You will see Bald Eagles, blue water and Quileute fisherman. Also, the busted up bridge and massive greenness should not be missed.

Get back in your car and go out the way you came on River Drive. You'll pass the Marina on the right. Look around the reservation while you drive. As much as I hate to say it (because I loved being here) the reservation was a little depressing. I guess with their numbers dwindling, they're probably hurting for money, but what Indian reservation isn't? Such a beautiful area and is saddened me to see them living this way. We really haven't treated the American Indian well in our history and I think this place shows it. The next time someone says, "If you don't love America, get out!" I will look past their redneck ass and remember this. This is how the only REAL Americans live. I hope their new resort gets a lot of traffic. It looks really nice.

One was fishing and the other was bailing:

As you drive back down River Drive, past the marina, there is a large pulloff. Pull into that lot and keep driving as far as you can. You'll see the pacific Ocean on your right but get as close as you can.
There is a small hill you'll walk down to this:

I snuck his ass past the treaty line:

So many trees. How DO they get in the water in the first place?

Why so sullen, Edward Cullen?

Yay, First Beach!

We had a lot of fun on this beach and made sure we touched the salty Pacific Ocean.

I even brough home some sand from First Beach:

My new red, knit fingerless mittens kicked ass! It's the only way to take photos when it's freezing.

Someone, please tell me what the hell this is:

On the way out of La Push I asked to stop at a pull off that said there were bathrooms. I can be honest now and say that I didn't (for once) really have to go, I just wanted to get under the canopy of these giant trees and take some photos. To keep myself honest, I DID pee and then went and took these photos. Worth every second I was in there:

Then we took these at the car before hitting the road:

Back on the 110:

This is the resort. The name of the bookstore in Twilight is called Thinderbird and Whale:

I took this near the resort:

My sand from First Beach:

Something else interesting that I found on the Quileutes. I didn't think it was fair to come to their land and photograph so much of it without trying to find out something about them:

Relationship with the white settlers :

The Quileute relationship with the white European and American settlers was similar to many other tribes' experiences. The first contact occurred in 1775 when a Spanish ship missed its landing and the Quileutes took them as slaves. Therefore, right from the start, the Quileutes were looked upon by Europeans as vicious. This happened again in 1787 with a British ship and in 1808 with a Russian ship. The first official negotiations with Americans occurred in 1855 when Isaac I. Stevens and the Quileute signed the Treaty of Olympia. It said that the Quileute people needed to relocate to the Quinault reservation.

"ARTICLE 1. The said tribes and bands hereby cede, relinquish, and convey to the United States all their right, title, and interest in and to the lands and country occupied bye them…"

Article 11 of the Treaty of Olympia was a single sentence:

"ARTICLE 11. The said tribes and bands agree to free all slaves now held by them, and not to purchase or acquire others hereafter."

This article took away an integral part of the culture of the Northwest Coastal tribes, the rights to possessions and slaves. Their culture had been focused on possessions and they had always owned slaves, but upon entering the U.S. they were forced to give up a key part of their unique history and culture. Later, in 1882, A.W. Smith came to La Push to teach the native children. He made a school there and started change the names of the people from tribal names to ones from the bible. In 1889, after years of this not being enforced, President Cleveland gave the Quileute tribe the La Push reservation. 252 residents moved there and in 1894, 71 people from the Hoh River got their own reservation. Unfortunately, in 1889 a settler who wanted the land at La Push started a fire that burned down all the houses on the reservation, along with destroying all the artifacts from the days before the Europeans came.

Since we'd gotten up early and really didn't have anything we needed to do today, we decided to go ahead and make the treck to Port Angeles. It's only 57 miles so it wouldn't take long. I knew we'd be passing Crecent Lake and I was excited about that. I, of course had NO IDEA just how beautiful that would be. so, next stop, Crescent Lake!


  1. I honestly did not know these places actually existed. Incredible pictures. What an amazing trip! So jealous!

  2. I so agree with you about the state of the reservation, it made us sad too, such beauty surrounding such sad living conditions. That thing that you want to know what the hell it is,is a type of seaweed! Found it out on the Dazzled by Twilight tour we did when I asked the tour guide. I have a video of me picking it up I should send you, it's gross! I think it's in the Twilight movie when Bella and Jacob are on the beach & he's telling her about the 'cold ones'..and a girl screams and she's running on the beach behind Jacob & Bella being chased by a guy who looks like he's got one of these seaweed monsters!!